Tarifa - day 2

Sat 29^th

Much calmer today with light wind, so loads of surfer vans arriving from 8am onwards. After brekkie we cycled along the coast into Tarifa.  Close to the harbour we chatted to a Brit couple in a Hymer who were there for the surfing. . Lots and lots of surf dudes hanging out all over town. There are 30 surfing schools in town, numerous kite surfing shops and quite a few sail repair shops! So quite popular then…………..

We watched the high speed ferry leaving – Tangiers in 35mins. We are very tempted to take a day trip to see a tiny bit of Africa. We then cycled out to the old fortifications on the end of a very narrow causeway. The rather tatty sign says it all!

Tangiers in 35 mins

as far south as we will get

The old part of town was ok with narrow streets and lots of laid back cafes reflecting the surf culture evident everywhere. After a coffee stop we cycled back in the warm afternoon sun.  The rest of the day we spent relaxing by the van and going for the obligatory walk and paddle in the surf before tea at 5pm. Still a novelty to be able to wear shorts in late November.

refreshing paddle before tea

The sunset was very good and soon the twinkling lights of Tangiers were visible across the water. Surreal, but very captivating.

Tarifa - southernmost point in Europe

Fri 28^th

After a stroll around the very unremarkable La Linea we departed for Tarifa in yet another heavy shower. The road around Algeciras let us see what a big industrial port it is and not that pretty. We climbed over the mountains and down towards Tarifa on the coast in a downpour of biblical proportions. 

There were lots of wind turbines as you would expect close to an area famous for its wind. The Costa de Luz is a magnet for surfers, wind surfers and kite surfers. First impressions were good – no high rise tower blocks  lining the sea, and very green. Much nicer. We drove 8km north of Tarifa to a campsite but decided to go back and investigate the possibility of wild camping by a beach. First one we turned into had 4 vans parked up behind a beachside hotel right on the beach. As we stopped the heavens opened again. 

For the next hour we were battered by gale force wind and very heavy rain with a few hailstones thrown in. The Guardia Civil arrived drove in and drove right back out. All the signs said no camping and no autocaravannas between 21.00 – 08.00. Out of season nobody minds!  What a spot when it finally cleared. Tantilisingly near across the sea was Morroco and clearly visible Tangiers. Ever so slightly surreal to be sitting having dinner looking across to another continent.

Morocco!

our spot on the beach!

Downhill to the Rock!

Tues 25^th

7 vans were parked overnight and most moved out early when we were getting the bikes ready. Bit cooler today so long sleeved tops and off we went. We cycled to km 25 / 36 before turning back as Tina was getting a bit weary. We had a snack at a lovely bar in Coripe station. Great friendly service and a free pomegranate thrown in!  29 miles  total when we rolled up at the van. Very nice ride with great views and we had also watched at least 50 griffon vultures circling high above some crags to the side of the route. Tea please!

30 tunnels on Via verde

Vultures high above

Weds 26^th

Another quiet night , bit of sun by 9am to warm us up. Packed up the van and headed back to Ronda to try and find a supermarket. We failed! No out of town one to be found and the streets into town were just too congested for us to park. Plan B – use what we had left. No chance of us starving, oh no.

The road to Benarraba our next stop was fantastic. It climbed high over the Serrania de Ronda  before snaking down towards the coast. As we descended we could clearly see the Rock of Gibraltar and the Straits. Wonderful.

The aire was 200m above the village and is one of the best we have stayed on. 5 slots with water, WC and waste water on each one plus a great view. The clouds were looking threatening so we went for a walk about pronto!  It was a lovely old village with steep and narrow winding streets. Very clean and tidy too. When a single deck bus appeared at the village entrance we thought “no way”. It reverse turned and headed back up the mountain road – phew.

great setting - my kind of place

We just got back to the van before the heavens opened – in a huge way. Thunder and lightening followed with a few hailstones thrown in. It was very hard to hear the news on the TV that evening as rain hammered down on us. We also had very strong winds gently shaking the van – I slept ok, Tina …………….. not really.

Benarraba centre & church

Thurs 27^th

Heavy rain still pouring down when we got up so a slow lazy breakfast before we headed down the mountain to Gibraltar. The road down was totally knackered and more like a roller coaster ride. Interesting.

When we approached la Linea where we intended to park, the Rock of Gibraltar finally appeared out of the gloom. It did look imposing as we drove along the sea front in La Linea. We parked up on the harbor side right in front of lots of super yachts. Very nice, and only a 700m walk to Gib.

The Rock appears thro' the rain

La Linea parking spot

More rain showers but we donned our waterproofs and walked to the border. Very strange to walk across a runway into a slice of Britain with all the signs in English.  We headed for main street and immediately noticed the amazing amount of traffic. Central London amounts. First impressions were not good, the buildings were drab and tatty. Ok there were several very modern / flash tower blocks down by the harbour, but the central part was very unloved looking. It was very densely developed and I have never seen so many scooters on the road or parked up in front of all the apartment blocks.

Main Street was very underwhelming with grubby pubs and fish & chip shops, the cable car up to the rock was closed so we elected to walk down to the former defense wall from the 1800’s. Very little is now visible, as newer buildings have swallowed it up. So onwards to Morrison’s!  It was just like the one in Bracknell. Supplies of mince pies bought we chatted to the cashier – 19 years living in Gib and she doesn’t speak any Spanish? Probably no need to. It really is like a slice of Portsmouth has been cut off and stuck onto the end of Spain.

runway to cross

mainstreet

Curiosity satisfied we headed back to the reality of our van. We would have liked to explore the tunnels up in the rock and some of the other historical sites, but it just was not to be. As you can gather we found Gibraltar a very strange place and not for us at all, but we had to go to see for ourselves.

can I have one for Xmas?

Costa Del "Souless"???

Nov 21^st

My birthday!  First ever birthday I have been able to wear just a tee shirt and shorts as it was still nice and warm – makes a change from the usual wet and cold November weather in the UK.  We had all decided to visit Marbella further down the Costa del Sol.  The density of buildings was horrible as we approached Camping Cabopino just to the north of Marbella.

 It was a nice site with open generous pitches but was just off the A7 dual carriageway. Lots of traffic hum in the background. Also lots of Brits, Germans and Dutch there for the winter. Not so many fences and “gardens” set up , but still a few. Xmas lights already installed and quite a few festival style flags fluttering on several Brit pitches. As usual we were a source of interest – “staying for the winter?”  If only they could read my thoughts when asked that………………….hmmmm. Just like village life the folk there for the winter seem to have spats. One guy told me he had moved after being unable to tolerate his nearby neighbour’s constant loud music! The beach across from the site was nice and peaceful but had to be accessed by a horrible walk across the aforementioned dual carriageway – over a bridge J

Cabopino beach

Sat 22^nd

We scooted into Marbella which was like driving along the North Circular in London due to all the adverts in English!  Traffic was also just as bad.  The sea front was very elegant, the pavements were all marble. Completely different feel to Benidorm.  The old part of the town was very nice with narrow streets full of classy shops. The central plaza was lovely, lots of restaurants in a very peaceful setting. Very nice.

Old Marbella

That evening we entertained Jonno Badminton a friend we hadn’t seen for 7 years! He lives and works in the San Pedro area and seems to love the lifestyle. Good to see him again and catch up.

Sun 23^rd

We said goodbye to Chris & Lillian who were flying home the next day from Malaga. They were leaving their van in storage and returning after the New year to continue exploring Spain.

We drove up the very entertaining road inland to Ronda. The scenery changed dramatically as we got higher and higher above the costa  and left behind the dense costal strip developments. It was literally like a breath of fresh air!  We had driven only 40km and had entered a different world. We found the campsite easily and once installed we scooted down into Ronda. Wow – the guide books were right. It is a stunning place, especially the famous gorge and bridge. We visited the bullring and museum. I would not want to see a bullfight but it was interesting to see the history  and tradition behind it.

eek!

Bullring

Viewing point in distance

Bridge over gorge

table with a view sir?

Mon 24^th

Another visit to Ronda to see the bits we hadn’t got to. It was still busy with tourists and also lovely and sunny. We wandered about the old part before having a coffee in the newer part. What a lovely town, very calm and relaxing to visit. Bet it is different in July & August.

We left the site at 1.30pm and drove NE to Olvera. This is a pueblo blanco (white village) with a majestic castle and church towering above it, situated in the Parc Natural Sierra de Grazalema. We were back in green Spain! The scenery was very lush and the newly ploughed fields were a rich, dark brown. More like Wales on steroids – lots of steroids!

The area autocaravannas was below the town down a very steep road on the site of a disused railway station. Unfortunately like many places in Spain the facilities had not been looked after or maintained. The dump station was completely blocked, the taps worked on a few bays. Usual litter around the perimeter, oh what a shame.

Olvera high above

The Via Verde de la Sierra started here so we intended to cycle it on Tuesday. It is a cycle / walking route along an old railway line. In fact the 4 stations and the 33 tunnels were completed but the rails never laid – it was privately funded and they ran out of money in 1926 without it ever opening.