Sanlucar de Barrameda

Mon 8^th

Shopping day so we went to Alcampo (Auchan) just outside Jerez, we had to queue to get off the motorway as seemingly the Spanish like to shop on Bank Holiday Mondays! In Alcampo there was a key cutting shop which was……….closed.  The key saga was to continue. Still we bought a foldup step and tarp in nearby Bricomar.  We drove into the free parking in Sanlucar de Barrameda right on the beach front to find lots of vans parked up. The “premium” front row facing the estuary was occupied mainly by Germans who looked settled in for a longtime.  By darkness there was also 7 Brit vans. The wind was from the north and CHILLY.

The sound of the fishing boat engines was incredibly loud - they chugged out to sea for at least 2 hours. it was like having a lorry sitting right outside the van

free parking

sunset

 Tues 9^th

Sunny start so after breakfast we continued the find a key cutter quest . back to Alcampo – same story “especial, 1 week to order”.

On our return journey we spotted a very modern feretteria. SUCCESS!!!!  2 new keys no problem. Tina was now a very happy bunny J

Once parked up again in the same spot we cycled long the coast in both directions. Once out of town it was very rundown with the same old problem of litter. There was also lots of unfinished housing estates, an all too familiar sight in Spain.

Weds 10^th

We walked around Sanlucar and up into the older part. We found a very nicely restored castillon and lots of bodegas. The pungent smell of fermenting grapes filling the air.

In the afternoon we walked along the beach crunching shells as we went. The beach was covered in shells right up to the sea wall.

We attempted to eat out in the evening but nothing was open. Yet again, lunchtime only. So very nice takeaway pizza instead.

El Puerto & Cadiz

Fri 5^th

Cold overnight so heating on for a bit in the morning, this seems to be how it is this far south over the winter months. No complaints from us when it still nice and sunny during the days J

We walked to the ferry terminal and caught the 10.45am to Cadiz.  They are constructing a new road bridge that is a real feat of engineering to look at. There is still a visible gap in the middle!

ferry leaving El Puerto

bridge not quite finished

The ferry trip was good and we were soon walking into the main square in Cadiz. First impressions were of a very elegant city with lots going on. They were finishing erecting the Christmas lights as we had hot chocolate and churros sat at a café. The old part of the city was a maze of narrow streets, the peninsula that it is built on is only 1800 x 1200m so quite a compact place. Cadiz is the oldest city in Europe and was founded by the Phoenicians in approx. 800BC. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1775 then rebuilt, so most of the buildings are renaissance or gothic style.

Cadiz - very elegant square

tiles missing some gold on Cathedral roof

The gold tiles on top of the impressive Cathedral have rather lost their lustre as many of them are missing the gold!

arty shot of old fortress

seagull sentry

We walked around the sea wall and visited the Castillo de Santa Catalina (fort) which is half a star in shape.  Very interesting and steeped in history that you can see – lots of additions over hundreds of years from when it was built in 1596 when Cadiz was ransacked and still in pretty good shape.

Cadiz theatre - lovely brick built

We then stumbled upon the central Mercado – full of local produce and rows of fish stalls. Tina was in heaven studying all the different types of fish and seafood. We had  2 tapas and sat amongst all the locals who were enjoying their lunchtime snacks and beers on the first day of a bank holiday weekend. Great atmosphere.

yum yum

We tried 2 backstreet ferreterias for a new key – same story “especial”

We returned with tired feet from all the walking about but it was well worth it to see Cadiz.

Sat 6^th

Another cloudless day so bikes out after we had walked into town to get some milk and wine! We cycled along the coast north from the campsite on a cycle path that was very good until it abruptly ended. Oh dear, yet more evidence of money drying up? It had brought us to the outskirts of Puerto Sherry, a modern yacht marina development with adjacent posh hotels. Lots of expensive cars parked up and lots of even more expensive boats moored in the harbour. However there were also quite a few incomplete apartment blocks that really did look ugly. More evidence of the recession or illegal buildings / corruption? Spain is littered with incomplete buildings, from the north to the south.

Copy of Santa Maria?

Puerto Sherry - incomplete buildings.......

In the evening went to the site bar for a drink and appetizer before diner. We ordered cuttlefish, which was delicious, a sort of meatier calamari if that makes sense? First time for us both but I have the feeling it will not be the last.

Sun 7^th

Yet another sunny, cloudless day but with a really bitter north wind, just like being at home – not really! 

Today we cycled into El Puerto to look at the centre but first we decided to go out to the end of the breakwater that is 1 mile long. As we cycled through the carpark a young local to the side of me just finished his bottle of beer, he then promptly lobbed it onto the nearby beach!  I really struggled to not shout out something but felt very saddened at what I had just witnessed. It appears that they really just do not care about their environment, as there was lots of litter (mainly bottles) lying around. However, that was nothing compared to the massive amount of glass and plastic bottles, wrappers, cans etc we could see that had been rammed into nearly every gap between the rocks that formed the breakwater wall.  Fishermen?  There were lots of them with 2 rods each, tackle boxes and seats. They seemed resigned to a day’s sport standing amidst the filth! It really was the pits. Unfortunately Spain has a significant majority who don’t give a toss about where they chuck litter, yet we have seen a huge number of bins, recycling points and lots of wheelie bins. I hope they can turn this around. Rant over. (don’t start me on the dog poo ……………….)

We then headed for the centre of town along the very pleasant estuary side path. It was busy with people walking about as it was a bank holiday weekend (feast of the immaculate conception). Eventually we found the church, which was a very low building, compared to many we have seen. The storks nesting  up top were making a right old racket as they were in courting pairs.

storks nesting on roof

bullring - 59 doors!

The bullring was huge with 59 entrance doors. It is the third biggest in Spain and can hold 15,000 spectators. Built in 1885 it still looks in very good order.

Back to the van and we put up our windbreak for the very first time. What a difference it made, we had a nice late afternoon snooze in the hot sunshine.

Shorts and more sand - Zahora & Trafalgar

Mon 1^st December!

Still wearing shorts in December, marvelous!  We packed up, did some shopping (included Xmas tree for €1.50 in Chinese bazaar) in Tarifa then headed north up the coast to Zahora on the Costa de Luz. The scenery was still very green and lush. We saw lots of fields with rows and rows of leeks. Still all low rise buildings right down to the coast.

only low rise buildings 

The site was very nice with big, relatively open pitches below the tall pine trees. Most of the campers appeared to be Brits but there was minimal “gardens” which was refreshing. A very friendly bunch.

dam - wrong tyres

signs being swallowed whole!

After lunch we cycled along the coast about 3km to Cabo De Trafalgar, the famous sea battle took place offshore here in 1805. Nelson was mortally wounded and the rest as they say is all history.  The road / causeway out to the island was blocked by yet more drifting sand. We decided to revisit another day and walk out.

Tues 2^nd Dec

Today was sunny but with a cool north wind, we scooted south from the site to Canos De Meca. This was a working town still involved in the fishing industry. Bit scruffy so we continued to Zahara de los Atunes. This used to be a gritty tuna fishing port but has been reinvented as a holiday resort – sort of. Evidence of lots of new buildings but dead at this time of year. Looked ok though unlike Alanterra further to the south. This was a new build resort with golf advertised – bit of a problem, the course has yet to be built.  Rows and rows of apartment blocks and hotels but no heart / focal point?  Almost completely empty.

bars all shut up for winter

We scooted back for lunch then returned to Trafalgar beach. Scoot locked up we continued on foot out to the lighthouse. Lots of boardwalks around the island and information signs. The only sign to mention the happenings in 1805 was quite small and the text blamed the French for the French/ Spanish  being defeated!

Faro de Trafalgar

only sign

it happened a few km from here in 1805

We saw the remains of a RIB (rigid inflatable boat) buried in the sand, apparently illegal immigrants come across from Morocco in these and cut them up and then bury it to hide the evidence. We had heard a Guardia Civil helicopter circling and were told on the campsite that they were probably looking for the latest bunch of illegals!

Weds 3^rd Dec

Sunny start so I went out on my road bike to Barbate and back. The sky had turned black just as I returned – good timing. 20 mins of rain then more sunshine.

After a late lunch we scooted north to Conil de la Frontera. The landscape was much flatter but still very green and rural. Conil was ok with lots of small shops and bars actually open. Nice beach front with a few vans parked up fro the night.

Thurs 4^th

Lazy start then we cleaned out the van, drained and refilled the water – I try to do tis every month to keep the tank nice and clean.  We left at midday and headed north to Cadiz. We couldn’t resist a stop at Decathlon, our favourite store for a browse. Sad but true…………  J

We planned to stop in El Peurto de Santa Maria which is a ferry ride away from Cadiz.  The wild camping spot looked a bit rough so we stayed in camping Las Dunas all of 500m away. Nice open sunny pitches and very friendly staff. As we were walking about we spotted the German couple we had parked beside in La Linea when visiting Gibraltar. Yet another case of what a small world we live in. they greeted us warmly and we chatted to them before setting up for the night.

El Puerto de Santa Maria

Duna Valdevaquerous - Tarifa day 3!

Sun 30^th

Day 3 wild camping on the beach front north of Tarifa, we really like the different landscape and feel of the place. No high rise hotels and very little traffic. It is very green and positively lush after Almeria and Murcia.

The wind was up so no surfers today but lots of kite surfers. I really fancy giving it a go and am contemplating doing a 3 day course on the way back from Portugal in early February !

After a late morning stroll we cycled along the coast towards a huge sand dune we could see from our spot. When we got there the road up across the top of it was disappearing under the sand advancing over it. The road signs were nearly buried and trees on the lower slope were slowly being swallowed. It was a bit tricky maintaining progress through it without your front wheel skidding out.

sandy problem ahead

concentrate

From the dune the views down the coast were very good, with Africa ever present in the distance.

trees vanishing slowly

Africa in the background

 A good day, we went to bed tired and fell asleep to the sound of the waves rolling in.