The Basque Country

Sat 20^th 

Our destination was Col D’Isepguy right on the Spanish border as we were in need of a “mountain fix." En route we stopped at St Jean Pied de Port deep in Basque country. It is known as the gate way for many of Sanitiago de Compostela pilgrims. We certainly saw many walkers as we drove closer. The town was still very busy and had a buzz about it. The old part was very nice and full of character. The main street for the pilgrims was steep and had loads of cheap hostels specializing in accommodation just for them. All ages and nations were involved. There was a Basque procession through the town and back towards the aire. Very colourful and great to see the traditional dress and dances.

St Jean Pied de Porte - classic river view!

Basque procession

The drive up the col was tight and had great views down the valley. We parked up below the café and were soon joined by 4 other vans for a peaceful night. Great views!

Col D"Ispeguy - great view down the valley 

Sun 21^st

We awoke to a cool morning but the sun soon appeared – as did lots of Spanish cars with walkers. They parked anywhere & everywhere – we hastily moved before we were boxed in! after breakfast we walked up to the ridge above us – well worth the effort. Look at the views. After lunch we drove down to Sare, a small Basque town. The aire was close to town so we walked in for a look in the hot evening sun. Nice place  and very relaxed.

morning sun

Tues 23^rd

After staying at very nice and nearly empty campsite (laundry needs……..  J) at the foot of the Col D’Ibradin we decided to stay at the aire at the top. I had cycled up the previous day and we just had to go and stay as it was a truly weird place! It is right on the border and has a street full of supermarkets and booze shops selling mainly to the French who seemed to drive up in their droves. Views would have been great if it hadn’t been misty. Parked up we went for a stroll – what a strange place. All built on a serious sloping road. The prices didn’t seem that cheap?

lots of shops on dead end road

misty view across to coast - honest

Weds 24^th

We walked to a lake below the Col in the mizzle. No problem as it was quite refreshing. We stayed again at Sare so that I could cycle up a couple of nearby Cols. Not too steep and lovely smooth tarmac. Great on the way down.

Thurs 25^th

Into Spain proper – San Sebastion. We found the aire no problem right by the University. Some very modern and funky buildings. Bikes out we cycled into town on the very well marked out cycle path. What a great City!  Classy sea front, great beaches, great old town with lots of bars and a lively buzz. It was also sooooo clean. The motorists were incredibly considerate to cyclists and always stopped for us at crossings. Brilliant ! That evening we had a drink in a local bar and had our first pintxos – Basque for  tapas. Yummy.

Concha Bay - San Sebastion

Fri 26^th

Breakfast then cycle into town to visit the Aquarium – as recommended by Tina’s brother Roger. Good place to visit. Lots of history of fishing in the region and lots of very interesting (and some scary!) fish to see. We witnessed the HUGE tank forming the front wall of the lecture theatre  being cleaned by 2 divers. They were very wary of an evil looking yellow fish / eel (help please Rog!). It had scary teeth. The tunnel underneath the main tank was awesome – the shark was huge and you could see it’s teeth and gills really close up. The rays were also very interesting to watch cruising about. Great place to visit.

HUGE tank being cleaned - moray eel above diver!

box fish

We then drove to Zarautz about 20 miles west. The site was high up above the bay. We were amazed at how many people were on site. Lots of surfer dudes as the beach is renowned for its surf. They must be keen as the walk down is steep. We found a spot for the night close to the “premium” spots right on the edge overlooking the beach and mountains. We had to move next morning as the spot was reserved for a blessing!!! More to follow on that…………………….

Les Landes - lots of trees and sand!

Sat 13^th

Another short and easy drive to Gastes a tiny village on the edge of a huge lake (theme developing here J) with sandy beaches. The aire has nice views over the boats out into the lake and as it turned out of several crude oil platforms! The area is seemingly rich in oil – hence the 35 platforms and refinery in nearby Parentis en Born. The lake is very popular for fishing and there was a completion in full swing when we arrived. Must be clean then. The local fete was that evening and the music was LOUD, AND I MEAN LOUD ENOUGH FOR A PROPER POP CONCERT. Why with only about 70 locals there? Thankfully it was switched off at 11.45pm.

Gastes - front row spot

When we left the municipal police turned up - Mon morning. He was checking the tickets as you could pull a scam by paying for only your day of arrival and day of departure. Rather silly system which as expected many of the mainly French owners were taking advantage of - the rush to the machine to pay was hilarious! Qui moi?? 

Sun 14^th

Hot and sunny again so a cycle ride into Parentis. It was resolutely dead! Nothing open apart from 2 restaurants doing Sunday lunch. At 12 noon precisely the French like to sit down for lunch so there was some life to look at. We found the local bullring on our way back – but absolutely no signs on it or directions to it? Are they sensitive about its existence I wonder in this age of political correctness?

Mon 15^th

Contis plage – back to the seaside proper. Roasting hot again so after a paddle then luch we returned for a laze on the beach and a very brief dip. Boy was it cold.  Contis had a relaxed kind of “surfer dude” air to it. Very under developed, we hope it stays so.

Contis - phare behind us

Contis aire - dunes behind 

Weds 17^th

After one night at Vieux Bocau aire we moved to the nearby Soustons Plage aire as it was so much nicer. Vieux Bocau was a very nice town, so nice in fact I celebrated by having a haircut! A very developed classy resort thankfully not full of tourists as the schools were back – ha ha. We were facing a sea lagoon with the beach 400m behind the adjacent dunes. Again the soothing sound of crashing waves to fall asleep to………zzzzzzzz.

lagoon

Thurs 18^th

Our squealing rear brakes had returned despite having a new handbrake cable fitted on our brief return to the uk by “Fiat Professional” (my a***). It had got to the point of being embarrassing arriving in an aire and to have all the folk stare at us as we squeaked past! Enough – lets get it fixed. We found a very helpful Peugeot car garage who said – bring it in. Their trolley jack said “no merci” when asked to lift the rear so a nifty air bag / jack was employed. I want one. Both handbrake drums were full of brake dust. Hour and a half later we were squeak free. The two mechanics were great characters and full of banter. We could now arrive in silence.

silence at last

Auriac sur Dropt to Biscarossse Plage

Sat 6^th – weds 10th Sept

We parked up on the drive of the very accommodating Doreen and Iain in Auriac Sur Dropt right in the  Dordogne. Tina had met them over dinner whilst in Cyprus visiting a friend a few years ago. They had said come and see us – so we did!  They were great company and made us feel at home. They are in the process of selling up and returning to the UK after having rebuilt 2 houses in France over a period of 12 or 13 years. Respect to them! Iain and myself had some good chats about motorbikes – but he never did get round to starting his classic Matchless 350 and letting me ride it round their adjacent field.

Auriac - free parking at Chez Doreen & Iain

Chateau Duras - near Auriac

We left Auriac in the very hot sunshine and headed for Sanguinet a small beach resort on a very large lake south west of Bordeaux – Les Grands Lacs. The aire was nice and shady and right across from a lovely sandy beach. The water was warm but very shallow. You had to wade out miles to get enough depth to swim. What a nice place – just like the seaside!

Thurs 11^th & Fri 12th

The seaside proper – we moved all of 30km to Biscarosse Plage. The aire was HUGE – 200 vans capacity . Lots of shade as we were among the tall pine trees just behind the dunes. Very relaxing and cool. The beach was incredible stretching in both directions as far as the eye could see. The sun was hot and the waves cooling. Lovely.

Biscarosse Plage

aire

Next day it was scoot out and a ride up the coast to the Dune de Pilat. It is the highest and longest sand dune in Europe at 111m tall and 3km long. Brilliant views form the top across the Arcachon Bay and of the sandbanks. After a late lunch it was back onto the beach for a couple of hours before tea o’clock.

steps or walk?

3km long!

views across to sandbanks

Rochefort & The Gironde

Bit of a gap in my posts, sorry - good wifi has been hard to track down!  The weather has been fantastic for the last month - too dam hot at times. Bit of a novelty for me being on holiday in September.

Sun 31^st 

A short drive south brought us to a lovely aire at Soubise near Rochefort. It is right on the riverside with lots of grass in front and a view of the boats moored on the very tidal River Charente. Their was also a network of cycle paths along the river – wonderful! As we were setting up the French people next to us commented on how practical our lefthand drive van was – not realizing I understood every word. When I replied in my best French that I agreed they laughed out loud. We had a good conversation with them and as they were leaving we were presented with a bottle of their local wine from the Charente. How nice of them.

mud. glorious mud!

bit of bad boat parking?

Soubise aire

Mon 1^st September

We took the cycle ferry across the river (2 years old and part of the continuing development of the tourist cycle path network) and enjoyed a cycle along the river into Rochefort. We stopped at the Transbordeur bridge which was built in 1885. It is still working today after having been restored in 1994. It was designed to allow the French navy ships get into Rochefort without dis-masting.  

cycle ferry

transbordeur bridge

Rochefort was a major centre for the navy and Loius 14^th had insisted it was built to be the best. The dry docks were really big and the infrastructure huge. Lots of the buildings survive today. The naval officers college is huge and very stylish – almost like a slightly smaller Greeenwich.

They have built a replica of a Napoleonic warship – the Hermione. It has just been completed and was due to have its first departure on Sept 3^rd. it was beautiful and very authentic looking with masses of ropes. The marinas , all three of them were full of boats of all descriptions. Some of them were huge.  All in all a lovely town to visit.

Tues 2^nd

Our next stop was to be Mortagne Sur Gironde on the aire which gets rave reviews on all the forums. We mooched down the Gironde’s northern bank and stopped at Seurin D’Uzet a very small village with a small 5 van aire right by the marina. We decided to stop there as it seemed to have all the right ingredients for us – calm, good views, grass area nearby and lots of space. There was even electric hookup included. After lunch we cycled down the back roads to nearby Mortagne. I personally was underwhelmed! Yes it had good views from the aire of the marina but there was loads of vans. Some were really packed in tight , some camping caristes had taken up 2 spaces. We much preferred our chosen spot – a bit of a find in our opinion. The cycle back was good, not to steep back up to the main road – we didn’t return by our original route as there was a 16% climb. See the warning for camping 

cars!

Seurin

view across the estuary

bit steep for us