Return to Trafalgar & Conil

Tues 3^rd

We headed south today back towards Trafalgar as we had to collect our 2015 ACSI card and books from camping Pinar San Jose where we had stayed last November. It looked full, also many folk were still there from our last visit – what do they do ? Simon & Julia whom we had caught up with near Lagos were also camped up so we headed in to find them – no problem as immediately we saw them taking photos by the car wash bay ???????  We had a good chat over a cup of tea before we decided we had better move as it was 5pm, and we hadn’t found our free spot for the night!

Simon suggested El Palmar beach so off we went. It was only a few miles away and easy to find where the other vans were parked up. It was very windswept with views directly over the beach. I parked up “head to wind” and we settled in for the night.

El Palmar free parking

Weds 4^th

After a wet and very blustery night we emerged into the sunshine for a walk along to one of the old towers. These are all along the coast and were for defence but also for spotting tuna shoals.

old pillbox

lookout tower

Our next free spot was along the coast at Conil de la Frontera, this is a pretty whitewashed town right on the sea. The carpark was huge with already a few vans on it. The wind was still very strong and cold so after lunch we wrapped up warm and went for an investigation. We found the tourist board – no mean feat and collected a few maps. We walked right along the sea front and saw a big group of cats sitting by a seat being fed by a lady. Turns out she was English and is part of a group who look after the cats by feeding them and more importantly having them sterilized! They also have successfully re-homed many of them in Germany. They were very friendly and definitely well looked after.

Conil Church

old gate

how many? (28)

The mirador (viewing point) gave us a great view over the bay and along the cliffs to Roche. We walked back along the beach to the van where some kite surfers had arrived and were setting up. Look at the pics to see the fun they had zipping back and forth on the flat lagoon that had formed. One guy was very good at great big, floaty jumps, hanging in the air for ages. I really must try it for myself.

making it look easy!

Bye bye Portugal, hello Seville

Sat 31^st

We awoke to a nice sunny day so after breakfast we prepared to go for a wander along the beach. We walked across the boardwalk where back in December a Swedish motorhome had tried to drive a cross it and crashed through it becoming stuck overnight. There were several patches of new boards, bet that cost their insurance a packet.

Just as we were approaching the official aire we heard somebody shout “you not speaking then?” sat on bench was Colin & Jill whom we had met at Falesia over Xmas. How nice to see them and the “very active” Millie their golden retriever.  We caught up with them over a coffee in the by now hot sunshine.  We chatted for ages and agreed to meet again for dinner that evening in the nearby restaurant. Jill has been following the blog and remembered all sorts of facts.

We were the only folk in the restaurant that evening, and enjoyed a very nice meal for all of €10 each including a drink and coffee. Great value.

Sun 1st Feb

2 hour drive to Peurto Gelves just south west of central Seville, first thing we did when parked up was do the laundry.  Sometimes we just have to do the more mundane domestic things instead of relaxing. The port is on the river and offers secure parking and very easy access to the sights of central Seville.

Gelves - marina aire

Mon 2^nd Feb

We had to set the alarm clock for 8am as we had lost an hour coming back into Spain. It felt terrible waking up and it was still dark outside!  It was also bitterly cold at 3 deg C, we had become used to nice warm days in Portugal. Warm clothes on, we caught the 10.15am bus  from just outside the port. 15 mins later we were walking into Seville centre, first stop the tourist info office. We elected to buy a ticket for the cathedral and the bus tour as we noticed that the Alcazar was free between 4 & 5pm.

cathedral main door

The cathedral was our first stop, big from the outside the sheer size of it inside was amazing. Huge columns and a very high roof, it is in fact it is the biggest cathedral by volume in Europe. Its Gothic architecture is very impressive with surprises round every corner. The sheer number of the chapels and altars make a quick whizz round impossible. Again whilst I found them impressive for the fantastic craftsmanship and the beautiful materials used, I also find them OTT and a bit vulgar especially as there was so much hardship and poverty when all these religious monuments were being constructed.

The main altar  - Capilla Mayor was literally dripping in gold leaf with over 1000 carved figures.  It of course is fenced & gated to stop the peasants knicking it all!

all that glitters is gold!

keep out!

The Giraida tower is the only part of the mosque that was knocked down to build the cathedral - it was my favourite part. There are 33 ramps to ascend it, all numbered. The effort was well worth it as the views were fab. Clearly visible is the modern electric motors, cables and chain system that now chime the bells. Great views for 360 deg.

bell chiming - modern style

amazing gothic roof

orangery

tower

After a snack we got on the bus tour, sitting inside as it was very cold and showery. The city was impressive in parts, scruffy and dirty in others. The 1929 expo colonial style houses were very good, the modern expo park from 1992 looked very run down and distinctly overgrown! Shame.

Next up was the Alcazar, the queue for the free visit was big but soon moved. We literally had a whistlestop tour of the rooms only. Wow! The Islamic influenced rooms are stunning, the detail of the mosaics and stone carvings are exquisite. Built and consequently expanded / modified since 913 right through until the gardens from the 19^th century. This is one place we could visit again at a more leisurely pace to take it all in.

Alcazar metal door detail

internal courtyard

beautiful ceiling

cathedral - viewed from Alcazar

Gudiana River valley

Fri 30^th Jan

A bit overcast when we set off but it soon cleared to a sunny, blustery day. We were headed for Foz de Odeleite on the Gudiana River so that I could cycle up to Alcoutim and back. It is mentoned in our guide as a popular cycle route so I had to see for myself why. Once at Mertola the road surface was much better and when on the IC27 it was wonderful! The views across the Gudiana river valley and into Spain were lovely, with lots of open space as far as the eye could see. All the wind turbines we could see were only in Spain – wonder why ?  As we turned off the IC27, the coast was visible 20 miles away shimmering in the heat. The road dropped steeply down to the river and we parked up at a viewing point just out of Foz. It was possibly the windiest point on the river but with great views.

Quick coffee, bike out and cycle kit on I set off for Alcoutim 10 miles up the river into the wind. The river valley is almost like a scaled down Mosel in Germany as it gracefully curves north but with no grape vines. There were lots of boats moored in the river and really nice little villages with a quay and café alongside. There seemed to be lots of Brits who were living the dream in riverside small holdings, complete with goats, dogs and a few JCBs ! I even saw 2 American RVs firmly settled in a plot named “RV Heaven”. The head wind was fierce but it meant I would be wind assisted on the return. It was relatively flat with only one big climb up to a viewing point where I stopped to take some pics. Beautiful.

Alcoutim in distance, Spain on left 

I stopped about ¾ mile shy of Alcoutim as the wind was now so strong it almost stopped me a few times. I took a pic then headed back to the van and lunch. I flew back averaging 20 mph – apart from the climb! A good workout, with stunning views, well worthwhile doing.

plenty of sheep, few people

downhill back to van

After lunch it was supermarket time, as we had virtually nothing in the fridge or cupboards. Lidl in Villa Real on the coast soon had us restocked, my now favourite Lidl Vanilla Bourbon ice cream safely in the freezer. The aire at Manta Rota was our choice for the last 2 nights in Portugal, but when we arrived it looked full to bursting. We were allowed to drive around for 10 mins without paying to try and squeeze in. I did squeeze in the only remaining spot (much to the amazement of some Brits watching – no pressure then) but with only 6 “ between our front and back to the other vans we elected to leave. We are just not used to being cramped in after weeks free camping, so we moved all of 500m to a beach side carpark where there were another 20 vans parked up! Much more like it, with lots of space between the vans. It was nice to be back in Manta Rota as we had really enjoyed here in early December.

Pomarao

29^th Jan

Overcast and a cool wind so we decided to scoot down to Pomarao where all the ore and sulphide from the Mina De Sao Domingos was taken by rail. It is located on the river and was the main port for transport down the river to the Atlantic.

The roads there were very narrow and passed through very rural village and across vast open moorland – a bit like the Sennybridge ranges in Wales as there was also lots of sheep!

remains of crane on quay

lots of space for vans!

The final descent down to the river was very steep and plopped us right beside the remains of the old quay. Sadly the remaining crane has been left to rot along with the few building remains. There were a few vans parked up, the Isle Of Man registered ex Army lorry  and trailer wins the prize for being the biggest conversion we have ever seen. Complete with rear sun deck.

stealth conversion?

The workers houses were similar to the ones in Mina, all in terraces and many with no windows only a single door. The quay café was open so went in and enjoyed a freshly baked pastal de nata and coffee. The lady spoke some English and told us that she could understand me better as my pronunciation was clearer.  That made Tina laugh.

cottages - no windows on some

The rain stayed away so scooted back in some sunshine and enjoyed the huge landscape before us. After lunch sitting outside in the sun I kitted up and went for a mountain bike ride on the local trails. These criss cross the area and you can go where you fancy. I had a great time crossing streams, jumping over puddles and grinding my way up rocky climbs.  It would have been very easy to get lost, so I about turned and enjoyed the cycle back in the setting sun.

mtb ride vista

 Mina - free parking on far side